Bhutan's rarest audience: the black-necked cranes of Phobjikha

There is a wide, glacial, treeless valley in central Bhutan called Phobjikha. It has one monastery, a scattering of farmhouses, and — for about five months of the year — several hundred black-necked cranes.

They come over the Himalaya from the Tibetan plateau in late autumn. They are endangered, they are enormous, and they are extremely good at knowing where they're welcome.

A valley that changed itself for a bird

The story people tell about Phobjikha is that the valley resisted electrification for years, and when power finally came it went underground, at considerable cost, so the cables wouldn't endanger the cranes in flight.

Whether or not you find that remarkable probably says something about how you travel.

The birds themselves reinforce it. Arriving, they are said to circle Gangtey Monastery three times before landing, and to circle it three times again before leaving in spring. Every local will tell you this. Having heard it, you will find yourself watching the sky above the monastery rather more attentively than you expected.

The festival

Held in the courtyard of Gangtey Goenpa, usually on 11 November — Bhutan's national day of celebration for the fourth King's birthday.

Schoolchildren from the valley perform a crane dance in white costumes with long black necks. There are masked dances, songs, and a large number of families sitting on the grass with flasks of butter tea. It is one of the least commercial festivals you will attend anywhere. There's no stage, no ticket, no compere.

Then everyone goes home and the cranes carry on with their winter.

Why so few travellers see it

Bhutan itineraries are built around Paro, Thimphu and Punakha, and they run in spring for the big tshechus or in autumn for clear mountain views. Phobjikha is a detour and November is late in the season. So the valley gets a fraction of the visitors that Punakha does — which is, of course, precisely why it's worth the detour.

Going, honestly

When — Usually 11 November. Cranes are in the valley roughly late October to February.

Where — Gangtey Goenpa, Phobjikha Valley, about five hours from Paro.

Altitude — Around 3,000m and genuinely cold in November. Bring more warm clothing than you think you need; the courtyard is exposed.

Watching the birds — The Crane Information Centre at the valley edge has scopes. Dawn and late afternoon are when they're in the fields.

Don't — Walk out into the roosting grounds for a closer photograph. The whole point of this valley is that people here don't.

If you want to be there

Phobjikha is already on our Bhutan journey — day five, Gangtey Monastery and the nature trail. A November departure puts you there for the festival with no change to the route at all.

That's the easiest yes on this whole list. Just ask.